I realize this is a lot to read but I want to be thorough. Thank you in advance for reading this and letting me help you have a good experience with my shop.
-So how do I buy a mask?
I make my masks in small editions aka number of copies I will make, one design at a time. The current design will have a limited number of Do It Yourself ( DIY) blanks and finished masks made. The best thing to do is keep an eye on my social media for new designs and announcements on when they will be for sale:
PRE- ORDERS:
- Once a new mask design is created I will post a pre-order date on social media. This is when the pre-order will be live and orders can be placed. I will usually announce a plan to release earlier in the week. My releases are always on a Friday at 2 pm PST.
- Once the pre-order opens, a certain amount of blank masks are made available. There may be another pre-order for the same design available later once I fulfill the orders for the first round but try to get in on the first one if you can! After a round or two of pre-orders i usually offer a few batches of ready-to-ship blanks of the current design. After that has run it's course I move on to the next design and discontinue this one.
- Usually it will take 1-3 months to create all of the masks for a pre-order batch. I usually keep within that estimated time but there is a possibility that it may go longer due to illness, weather, emergency or schedule conflicts. However, I always fulfill my obligations on pre-orders. If you choose to participate in a mask pre-order, please be prepared to wait until the end of the production period.
I will also produce finished, ready to wear, one of a kind painted FINISHED versions of the current mask design. They are available very occasionally since they take a lot of time. Finished masks are posted for sale as they are completed. I try to post a heads up on upcoming finished masks a few days before they are put into the store. I post on twitter, tumblr and instagram under @missmonstermel ( links are above).
Once the BLANK edition has sold out and finished masks have run their course, I retire the sculpt and move on to a new mask idea. I do this because it's easy to get burned out producing one design for too long. A new design is introduced every few months!
When I have a batch of finished, ready to wear masks ready i will post a heads up on when they will be in the shop on my Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter or Instagram!
Masks are only available during the time a pre-order is open or when a finished and painted mask is listed on ebay or in this shop. If the listing says SOLD OUT the mask is not available for purchase at that time. All NEW MASKS that are available can be found on the shop's front page. Please follow one of the social media links above to get a heads up on when a new mask will be available.
- Well if all the older masks are sold out, why do you keep them up in the store? Just to confuse/tease me? Boo!
I like to have a gallery of older designs to look through! Masks are arranged in the mask category from newest to oldest. Since I post in so many places and make so many varieties of work, it can be hard to see all my mask designs in one place without scrolling through years of posts on instagram or facebook.
- Will you tell me the exact time/day/etc of when you are going to list X mask? Can you reserve/paint one just for me?
Most of my work is posted every Friday at 2pm PST.
Follow my Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter or Instagram or watch the store's shop update page for news, release dates and progress pics. New mask sculpts come out every few months!
I cannot reserve pieces or do custom work. I am a one person business, please understand that there are a lot of other customers. Making exceptions for everyone would wear me out! I can no longer reply to inquiries to remake old masks.
- My mask is too thick/thin! I can't use it!
- There is no industry standard when it comes to urethane mask thickness. Design and detail deepness also factors into how thick a mask needs to be. I try to find a balance between the two depending on the mask's design. If a mask has a thin spot, this is not considered a flaw or something that makes the mask damaged or unusable. A mask being thicker/thinner than another maker's mask does not indicate better/poorer quality- it is simply the preference of the maker vs. preference of the individual customer. We cannot predict your preference. If it is too thin for your liking, add lightweight putty to the inside spots you want to be thicker. If it is too thick, you can dremel the inside to make the mask walls thinner. If this is unacceptable, please do not purchase a mask.
- Can I wear glasses with your masks?
Most of the the masks will not allow for room and even if they did they would press into your glasses since some of the weight is usually touching parts of your head where glass sit. Sorry!
- Will you sculpt me my mask idea? Will you sculpt a mask from ( movie/video game/pokemon/pop culture)?
I'm not open for commissions and I'm not really interested in making work that's not my own idea. There are plenty of other makers who can fabricate custom cosplay items for you, please give them your business! Many of them are on etsy!
-What are they made of? What comes with buying a finished mask?
These masks are cast in urethane which is a type of plastic! This kind of urethane is slightly flexible, just enough to be less likely to snap or shatter when dropped. They can still break and like any plastic, may warp in high heat or direct constant sunlight ( like the inside of a car in the summer)
Finished masks will have elastic straps attached and soft foam glued to the inside. Buyers may need to add or subtract this foam to get a better fit. A perfect fit is not guaranteed! Masks with "black out" eyes can be seen through but WILL have darkened vision. Please wear in well lit environments to prevent you from falling on your face/ass. More detailed information is posted in the mask listing themselves.
If your finished mask smells a little funky it is because i use industrial strength NON-TOXIC hot glue to attach straps and foam. This will go away. Put a few dryer sheets in the mask to get it smelling just the way you like!
What paint do you use?
Acrylics- mostly Dick Blick Matte acrylic, Citadel, Vallejo, and Holbein.
Can you teach me to make masks?
If you really want to learn from me, consider supporting my patreon. However, there are many free sources online that can help you too! Start with the RPF , they have a lot of information!
BLANK DIY ( Do It Yourself) MASKS:
Be sure to check out my tutorial section for helpful hints on mask finishing!
BLANK masks are introduced first as a small pre-order to fund the cost and labor of creating molds. People pre-pay for a mask and once the molds are built, i pour the pre-order masks and mail them out. This whole process usually takes a few weeks/months. After the pre-order is fulfilled, batches of ready to ship BLANK masks are offered for purchase as they are made or I may just open for another pre-order if a new set of molds needs to be made since molds can wear out with use. These will have a limited number produced overall.
*** I really need to stress the fact that blank masks will take work to finish! You will need to use a rotary tool to knock down the sharp or thick flashing edges, small bubble holes may need to be filled, the mask will need to be washed with dish soap and maybe even lightly sanded before primer is applied. A lot of work goes into a mask just to take from fresh from the mold to ready to paint! These are not ready to paint right out of the box. Please make sure you are comfortable with this before you buy. ***
FINISHING YOUR BLANK + PATCHING PIN HOLES:
-These are produced one at a time in my own studio and there will be some imperfections in the blank raw casts. The buyer will need to sand/remove the flash edges themselves. There may be minor air bubbles that can be patched. You can use apoxie clay, plumbers putty or green stuff! Most epoxy putties will work.
-Buyer can chose to reinforce their mask by adding lightweight putty or epoxy clay on the back.
-Buyer should add foam to the inside of the mask to customize the fit.
-Elastic straps can be attached with high heat hot glue, epoxy glue or other strong adhesive. Clamp while curing /drying to secure the bond better. Score ( roughen) the inside mask's surface where you will be attaching the straps so everything will stick better! Have the strap go across the widest part of your head and be sure to account for the elastic's stretch when measuring the length of the strap.
Here is a small example of using heat and an exacto for cutting part of the mask:
Some craft/paint/kit building knowledge is recommended. I cannot provide build help beyond the info included here. Please do not purchase an unfinished mask if you do not know what to do to complete it.
-You may want to wipe the blank mask with rubbing alcohol and then wash it using a bristle brush with dish soap before applying any paint or primer. This will get rid of any lingering mold release or surface contaminants. Applying a spray primer before painting will also help paint stick to the surface better.
-How do I paint blank masks?
Once all of the sanding/finishing is complete and you have washed or wiped the mask surface, lay down a coat of spray primer before painting. Spray primer or automotive primer can be found at hardware stores in the paint department as well as craft shops. My favorite primer is the citadel line! This will help paint stick to the surface of the mask. You can usually buy primer in black, grey or white to provide an appropriate color base to work off of. You can then use a variety of techniques to paint the mask- craft acrylic works well, airbrushed or even spray paints can also work depending on the design you want. You can even use alcohol based markers to create designs! If you are doing graphic patterns or lines, it helps to lay down some guiding lines on the primed surface of the mask with colored pencil before tackling the paint application. Once the paint is complete, allow it to dry and then hit the mask with a few coats of clear acrylic spray- you can use gloss, matte or satin finish! Let everything dry for awhile before wearing the mask!
-How do I attach straps to my DIY mask?
FINISHED MASKS:
- Your finished, ready to wear mask includes an adjustable sliding elastic strap with loops attached to the mask itself in case you prefer to replace with your own straps.
- Finished masks are painted, sealed and ready for wear. The inside will have foam pieces to help with fit and comfort. Trim the foam ( or add more) to desired, customized fit. A perfect fit is not guaranteed! All masks will have a level of small discomfort or inconvenience, it is just the nature of strapping a big chunk of material to your face. Please be realistic. If you expect the mask to feel like you are wearing nothing, these may not be for you.
- There will be slight variations between each mask due to the hand made nature.
- If a finished mask gets dirty or scuffed, wipe with a moist cloth. Do not use rubbing alcohol or anything solvent based to clean the front of a painted mask. It will rub off the clear coat and the paint! Please treat these masks with care to prevent the paint from being worn off. I cannot take responsibility for damaged masks after purchase, it is the buyer's duty to take care of their piece.
SHAPING:
If your BLANK mask is a little tight you can use heat to shape it. You can also adjust any warping due to heat exposure. The oven method is the fastest but please be mindful that over heated urethane could off-gas some fumes and this isn't something you want to do often in an oven meant for food! Open all your windows! Warm the mask in an oven ( low temp setting around 170 degrees, place on a cookie sheet and only heat for 4-7 minutes) Shape while the urethane is warm, once it is cool it will stay in place ( dunk in cold water to accelerate cooling) You can prop it on an unturned bowl or some sort of sturdy object that has the width you desire while it cools. You can also warm masks by immersing in hot water or using a heat gun or hair dryer, applying heat to the front and back. If all else fails and you want the mask wider, you can sand out some of the interior with a dremel+ drum sanding attachment. Please use common sense when using heat, i cannot accept responsibility if you damage your mask or sustain injury while heating. Be careful, kids!
To heat shape FINISHED masks i recommend using a heat gun or hair dryer on the back to warm, so that the paint job on the front is not damaged. Heat until the urethane is pliable and gently pry open to make the mask wider. Place warm mask on a surface that will hold it open until cooled- an upturned bowl, rolled up clothing, etc. PLEASE be careful!
Taking care of your mask:
Please store these masks out of super hot direct sunlight so it doesn't become hot and soft then sag or warp! Just like many urethanes, they are sensitive to heat and can buckle under their own weight when softened. If it does, you can shape it back to normal using the methods described above. Display them on the wall by their straps or attach a loop to the top to hang on a nail. If you let your mask sit on it's sides or "cheeks" , they may settle and curve in. Try to store it with some support. These masks are durable and this may make them sound as fragile as glass but with a little care and proper display/storage, they will last you a very long time.
- I recommend displaying these masks on a paper towel holder, motorcycle helmet display or a hat display to prevent warping that can occur from bearing it's own weight during long term display. If storing, please use bundled cloth/foam/paper inside the mask to support the shape.
WAIT TIMES ON PRE-ORDERS:
I can't stress this enough: If you decide to purchase a pre-order product you must be ready to wait. The estimated wait times are clearly stated in mask listings. Please do not message the shop to ask when your mask will ship before the time has passed or before checking the store news page to see if there are delays! Pretty please , checking in stresses me out big time!
TERMS OF USE:
I realize that i cannot control what people do with my masks but i can at least state some boundaries:
-Feel free to resell blank masks you purchased from me that you have painted and finished ! Feel free to resell any finished or unfinished masks you have purchased from me. Charge whatever you want, if you make a profit that's great. I only ask for the courtesy of crediting me for the original sculpt in the posting or store listing. Feel free to buy my masks second hand from people who purchased them from me originally.
- Feel free to use the mask for a youtube/disguise persona - this is a question I have been getting a lot lately. I only ask that you credit me as the mask maker somewhere in the video's description and please do not create merchandise based around that persona's appearance that includes the mask.
-If you use a mask base of mine for a portfolio piece/photoshoot/self promotion I must insist on the courtesy of credit for the base sculpt in social media and portfolio posts. Feel free to get my work tattooed on you but please ask your tattoo artist to credit my art if they post it online.
-Please do not recast these or copy my current or older designs for your own profit. Make rad masks that YOU designed, don't just fart out copies of someone else's thing for a quick buck like a lazy coward! I believe in you!
-Feel free to create original characters around my mask designs! Make art of them, go for it! I would love to see the artwork! :)
CUSTOM WORK:
I do not do custom work outside of professional freelance. (Being a DJ or in a band will not change this.) I just don't have time to send estimates only to be ghosted or haggled with.
SAFETY:
These masks are pieces of art made for light costuming and display. They should never be used in place of safety equipment, a motorcyle helmet or as any kind of protection. Do not use this as a welding/metal working mask. Do not use this as a hockey/airsoft/paintball mask. Use common sense, please. I would not recommend this as a piece to use for any LARP that may result in any blows to the face. I will not be responsible for any injuries sustained from wearing my masks.
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